Pop Vegan is a restaurant located in the Rua Augusta area, in São Paulo, that aims to democratize access to vegan food. The establishment offers a buffet for R$ 24, where customers can eat all they want, thus fulfilling its promise of accessibility. The author of the text highlights that, unlike other places that talk about popular food but charge high prices for simple items, Pop Vegan really delivers accessible food.
Food critic Ian Oliver, responsible for the weekly newsletter "O Crítico Antigourmet," praised the restaurant's commitment to fair prices. However, he pointed out that there is a problem in the sensory delivery of the dishes. The food fails to fully satisfy gustatory expectations.
The text addresses what he calls a "recurring complex in vegan cooking," which would be the impression that, after removing meat, milk and eggs, a void remains that needs to be filled. Cooks then overdo the spices, colors, smoked flavors, sweeteners and aromas.
The result of this excessive compensation is described as accumulation and excess, rather than purity and highlighting natural ingredients. The author suggests the problem lies in trying to mask the absence of animal ingredients instead of celebrating what remains on the table.
